Wood Carving

Suggested
Uses & Tips

Many Wood Carving Uses, including:

• Used by leading wood carvers around the world, including Jim Sprankle.

• All clays self-harden; no heat required! Non-toxic, no solvents or fumes.

• Clean up with Apoxie® Safety Solvent or soap and water.

• Aves® two-part clays adhere to ceramic, wood, metal, stone, glass, cement, foam, fiberglass and many plastics.

• Can be sanded, drilled, lathed, and otherwise tooled.

• Accepts paints well.

• Strong, durable and waterproof, with 0% shrinkage.

• Generous 1 to 3 hour working time.

• Available in colors and metals.

 

Wood Carving

AVES Products Suggested for Your User Group

 

 

Customer Projects & Testimonials

 

Come back soon to see Robin Liles amazing woodturning technique blending in customized Apoxie Sculpt!

 

 

 

Pollen Grain model at Smithsonian 

 

“The main reason I use Apoxie® Sculpt is . . .” more

J. D. Sprankle, Waterfowl Carver

 

 

 

 

 

Apoxie products were used and I highly recommend them . . .more

 

 

 

T-Rex by John Fischner 

As a competitive carver, it is the best material and the one that does not cause me allergic reactions . . . more

 

 

 

Here is a creative use of Apoxie® Sculpt! . . . more

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This message is from the “Carvers' Net Discussion Group”

Re: broken bill
From: musket
Date: 16 Jul 1999
Time: 12:14:15

Comments

Have thought about this some more; I know how heartbreaking it can be to have a piece almost done and then run into bad luck like this,  so here are some more ideas.

Like dk I have found that 5 minute epoxy can be used as a filler with good results. What I do is mix it with very fine tupelo dust (make  the dust with an XActo or Zona razor saw, not sandpaper) and a tad of gesso to lighten the color.

The main thing you have to do is cover that join line completely with a nonwater soluble substance, whether it's 5 minute or Apoxie® Sculpt, and then feather the filler out to misdirect the eye from the repaired area. Apoxie® Sculpt feathers very well with a brush, which is why I like it a little more than A+B white which seems to be a bit harder.

Try for as little buildup of filler as possible. You may want to do the repair in two stages fill first, sand smooth, then recoat with the feather coat and resand. Don't use power tools to take the area down, there is too much differential in hardness between the wood and the filler. Sand by hand (I prefer freecut silicon carbide  paper), to at least 400 grit. And change your sandpaper frequently as any of these fillers will clog even freecut in pretty short order.

After you're done, no matter how tempting it may be to start painting over it again right away, set it aside overnight. Look at it again in the morning with fresh eyes if it still seems okay then go ahead and start repainting, but I'm willing to bet you will think it can use a bit more touching up with sandpaper.

Would assume that you are doing all this work with a 2.5X Optvisor. If not, then do, because if it looks okay under 2.5X it'll look fine  without.

 

 

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