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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS |
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These questions come from users of Aves products. Some have been edited for easier reading and understanding.
1. Approximately at the start of this year (2002) I bought a four pound kit of the Aves Apoxie® Sculpt. I have had some problems with it and I am hoping that you can tell me what I am doing wrong. At least half the time when I mix it and apply it to a kit, it never hardens! It just stays a soft consistency which I have to scrape off with my fingernail, and then reputty. I am talking about a day or two after the application to the kit! I do smooth it down on the models by dipping a finger in water and then running my finger over the area I am puttying. Can it be that I am sometimes simply wetting it too much? I mix it half and half like the instructions say, and make sure I have mixed it thoroughly. About half the time it actually works and hardens up. Since I am getting the material directly out of the same tubs it came in, I don't understand why sometimes it will harden and the next time I use it, it does not. Answer Honestly there are very few people who have this problem, and 99.9% is due to incomplete mixing. (We are leaving a 1/10% open for something really strange!). We have done extensive testing on this subject , even going as far as getting the product in question back, testing it thoroughly and returning the old product, with a new unit, to the customer, with a hardened sample from the product in question that has been tapped, drilled through, and sanded. IT HAS HAS ALWAYS WORKED WHEN WE TESTED IT. As for too much water, that is not a problem unless you are really soaking it down very excessively. Our two part products will even set up under water! Possibly it is the kneading technique, or an insufficient amount of time mixing. We always mix (thoroughly knead) the product for at least 1.5 -2 minutes - always! If you are having this problem, the answer is that you need to improve your procedure for mixing. 2. I am now on my second four pounds of Apoxie® Sculpt and it is wonderful; however, I have a little problem working with your product and perhaps you can help. It seems that about 2-3 hours after mixing it is very good for sculpting, but my tools stick to the product and tend to tear apart what I am working on. I know there is a simple answer like maybe putting the Apoxie® or the tool in the refrigerator. I have been making marionettes for over 40 years and Apoxie® Sculpt has taken me to a very professional level. I have eliminated the timely process of making molds, thus eliminating several days work. Needless to say my income has quadrupled. Thank you, A. G. Answer Thank you for your inquiry and the kind words about Aves Apoxie® Sculpt. Apoxie® Sculpt is a terrific product! That is amazing that you quadrupled your income, I am very pleased to hear that. I have been working with Apoxie® Sculpt for years now. The best tools I can recommend to use are made of metal; wood is nice, plastic is flexible, but the one that sticks the least is the metal. 3. I'm really not clear on what the difference between Apoxie® Sculpt and Apoxie® Clay is. I'm interested in sculpting figures and modifying pre-existing plastic figures... which do I want? Answer This is a common question. There are many similarities as well as differences between these products of Apoxie® Sculpt, Apoxie® Clay, and FIXIT®. In many cases, any of the three can be used with the same great results. Yet, they all have their place and best uses. Click here to see comparison chart. Most modelers have found that Apoxie® Sculpt is perfect for both sculpting figures as well as modifying pre-existing plastic figures. You may decide that you would prefer to use Apoxie® Clay to sculpt, and Apoxie® Sculpt to modify. The only real way to tell what works best for you is to try the different products yourself. 4. I have a tendency to sculpt fragile fingers and such. I've heard that the Aves products are super strong and almost unbreakable. True? Answer TRUE! Apoxie® and FIXIT® products are super strong. For example, people into radio controlled subs, ships, and planes will roll a very small rod shape out, then let it harden, and then turn it on a lathe to make an "antenna" for their model. When done, it is thinner than a paper clip! Another artist sculpted an 18 mm skull, and after curing had a hard time crushing it with a pliers! 5. Are your two part products weather proof? UV resistant? Non-toxic? Answer Both Apoxie® Sculpt, and FIXIT® are UV resistant, waterproof, weather proof, and incredibly durable. Apoxie® Clay is very strong, but the others are superior in this regard. FIXIT® is also very resistant to fuels. We soaked cured cubes of Apoxie® Sculpt and FIXIT® in nitro-methane (radio control car fuel), and after a day the Apoxie® Sculpt was slightly softened, but the FIXIT appeared unaffected, and was still impossible to scratch with a fingernail. 6. How high of a temperature can Apoxie® Sculpt take? I am looking at an oven baked glaze product to get ceramic like results using Aves products. It has to bake at 300 degrees F for 35 minutes. I’m not sure if it will work, but I thought I would ask. Thanks, B. J. Answer Here is what we have found. We received e-mail from a lady a few months ago (an internet question, such as yours) and she wanted to know about baking the product with a glaze. She had found a glaze that is oven bakable, called Pebeo Prociline 150. So of course we had to try it. It worked on Apoxie® Sculpt, and on FIXIT®, too. If you ever want to use a glaze, that stuff worked great, it comes in 47 different colors, and it’s dishwasher safe, too. 7. What is the best primer (if any) to use when painting Apoxie® Sculptwith waterbased paints?? Thanks. Answer The best surface prep is to wash the cured Apoxie® Sculpt surface with a light detergent or other cleansing agent. This will help the paint to adhere evenly, avoiding spidering, etc. Primers may be helpful, but are not necessary. Primers may be helpful to make the final show color more uniform, if desired. However, other users find that using a whiter base (e.g., Apoxie® Sculpt White color), when cleaned and top coated, is easier than using a primer, and shows the top coat color the best. 8. I was wondering if, after the Apoxie® Clay or Sculpt is dry, is inhaling the dust that is created from sanding or drilling it harmful? Answer When drilling or sanding anything that may produce excessive dust, it is ALWAYS a good idea to wear a protective mask of some sort. You are not going to have much in the way of harmful side effects from a little dust from just a short, quick sanding, especially from Apoxie® Sculpt or Apoxie® Clay. These products are non-toxic. However, if you are breathing a lot of particles in while doing these tasks, wear a mask.
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My Aves Apoxie® Sculpt arrived last Wednesday. I'm having fun experimenting. My question is this. Can I use the Apoxie® Sculpt as a substructure on a mermaid tail, and after drying a few days, overlay that with Premo polymer clay and bake it? The Premo needs to be heated at 265 degrees for 20 minutes. A fellow artist has done this with good results. I'm just worried about heating the Aves. Would this be safe or do you not recommend this technique. I see nothing on the information label that says otherwise. I just don't want to do it until I hear from the pros! YOU!! Thanks, V. A. We are so glad you are enjoying your Apoxie® Sculpt. Well we know you are going to just love what we are about to tell you next. YOU CAN!!!! Apoxie® Sculpt is designed to stand temperatures up to 350 degrees F, so yes it is very safe. However, we ALWAYS recommend that you try a test piece first. Take your Apoxie® Sculpt, mix up a fairly decent amount, let it harden over night, then over lay that with the Premo clay and try baking it. You should have excellent results, but honestly we are not sure if the other clay will provoke a different reaction. We have not tried Premo personally, that is why it is always smart to test it when in doubt. Then bake the real thing once you know for sure that it will work.
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